How you can compare pursuing a PhD in Europe to a PhD during the United states of america?

January 18th, 2019

How to create a fantastic essay in 20 minutes when specified a subject?

Term Papers Written for You: the Ultimate Convenience!

A summary format for research newspaper can be immensely beneficial Read the rest of this entry »

Exactly what is essentially the most important part of producing an essay?

January 18th, 2019

Analysis paper producing is really tricky so get the assist you have to have

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Action by Phase Guideline to Creating an Essay

January 18th, 2019

What’s probably the most intriguing title of a thesis about tourism?

What Paper Editing Services Is – and What it Is Not

Tell our experts Read the rest of this entry »

The Inexplicable Mystery Into What Is a Good Essay Writing Service

January 16th, 2019

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five year update

January 9th, 2015

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Five years have passed since the UAE guidebook went on sale. Obviously there has been a lot of change since then: new crags, new routes, changed access situations, etc. I have begun drafting an update document –  linked HERE – which explains what has changed and where to get additional information. Only at an overview level – I am not aiming to put individual route descriptions or topos in the document.

I would be very grateful for assistance in making it accurate. Please take a look, then email me or FB message me with any contributions or corrections. Thanks!

EDIT – May 2015: unfortunately other commitments have overwhelmed intention and this document is not going to get finished. FWIW I have left the draft version up for now.

EDIT AGAIN – January 2016: the document is now ~ finished. Click HERE

Mike Green

February 21st, 2014

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Mike Green, an expat British climber in the UAE, died in February.

Though my time in the region overlapped with Mike’s for less than a year, we climbed often together and had kept in regular contact until very recently. I regarded him as a good friend. The background to his death can be interpreted in a way that diminishes Mike’s memory so I will not dwell on it. Let’s just say that it is always troubling to discover how little we sometimes know about people we think we know well.

Mike moved to the UAE for work in late 2011. I first met him at a park in Abu Dhabi where he was slack-lining with his sister and some other friends. Two things struck me immediately: he had some extraordinary muscles – I reckoned I could climb 9a if he would lend his shoulders – yet despite his bulk he seemed remarkably adept at the dainty art of walking the line.

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Over time I realised this was characteristic of Mike: once something grabbed his interest then he would obsess over it until it was mastered, whether it naturally-suited him or not.  The range of these interests was almost surreal. Whilst chatting on the long drives, that are the curse of Abu Dhabi climbers, some fresh fragment of Mike’s past would often emerge. He had been an MMA fighter, for which he had built himself up to 90Kg. He had been what the Japanese call an “otaku”, staying at home for weeks on end immersed in online video games. Very recently he got serious about photography, producing stunning results quickly, apparently without effort. A public gallery he assembled is here.

I believe he had only been climbing for about a year prior to coming to the UAE, mostly at indoor walls or areas close to London like Portland. Our first day out together was at Wonderwall, with Theo Giani. For some reason, we were focused on repeating Hot Rats, a brutally thin 7a slab route, with  old-school spaced bolts on cheese-grater rock. To my total surprise, though the grade was beyond his limit at the time, Mike offered to lead the route, and gave it his best shot. I was deeply impressed, not least as I had backed off the route some years before; it’s scary.

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Mike was making steady progress through the grades when I left the UAE in July 2012 and had done almost all the sport routes in the region up to ~7b by the end of last year. Also some spectacular deep water soloing; his determination and indestructible physique being a good fit for DWS. Though respectable for most people, it was clear from correspondence with Mike that he wanted to raise his level much further, and it seemed he was as focused on that objective as anything in his life. I always assumed it was only a matter of time before he was climbing harder than all of us.

Mike’s family have set up a page at muchloved.com, for people to share memories of him.

stealth Musandam 2011 DWS film found!

January 3rd, 2014

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 I was recently pointed to a nice 5 minute video of the 2011 British-sponsored-heroes visit to Musandam hosted by UKClimbing.com. Oddly they seem to have uploaded it but never actually publicised it. Worth watching.

Link to video is here

The following routes are featured:

0:27 The Equaliser F7a+

0:43 Free Diving F6b+

0:57 One Liner F7a+

(1:54 the Red Armada editorial team chasing dolphins in a kayak)

2:32 Drop Zone F6c+

3:11 Partheon Slots F8a (incorrectly labelled as an unclimbed project – Read Macadam got the FA during this trip)

4:08 GenerationX F7b+

(5:14 the Red Armada itself, just visible parked at the dockside)

 

Musandam publicity ramps up

December 27th, 2013

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In 28 years of climbing I’ve never seen rock formations as magical.

This month’s National Geographic carries Mark Synott’s article about the TNF/ NatGeo sponsored trip that he, Alex Honnold, Hazel Findlay and others made around the Musandam coast in October 2012. The website also has various supporting material including a nice DWS video. It is probably no coincidence that Alex and Hazel have also been talking about the trip for the first time in interviews. For example, in Hazel’s podcast interview at the excellent Enormocast.

I was slightly involved in the article. Mark gave my name as a source for fact-checking, which resulted in a quite lengthy email exchange with a NatGeo sub-editor in – oddly – Toronto! Mike Nott in the UAE also helped out. I was pleased to see Mark’s final article contained no mention of the team’s original claim to be the first to visit the area. However there was no mention of the active “local” climbing communities in the UAE and Oman; a shame in my opinion. Nor the beta on where to find the existing DWS routes (ie from this site!). Anyway, the stunning photos definitely justify the price of the magazine. Go buy it!

Elsewhere Gripped magazine in Canada has also just published an article about sport climbing near Muscat in its latest edition, focused especially on expat-Canuck Read Macadam’s new hard stuff at Hadash.

understated trad grades

December 18th, 2013

Simon Cahill sent me this note on a multi-pitch route at Sentinel:

Just had a great couple of days out with Maddie, day 1 climbed a route on the sentinel, can’t remember the name something like Kasarkstan [actually: Kharzang] and is route number 1 in your book. The grade given is v-diff. It’s a great climb but at v-diff is way off and potentially dangerous as a good severe leader would have an epic. I think it’s pretty solid VS with a lot of 4b climbing and I had to work the crux several times to get it so I think probably 4c ….I talked to Ralph about it this morning and he thought it was an HVS horror, not that bad but not V-diff. I think any update of the guidebook should include a serious regrade.

The descriptions and grades for trad routes were in most cases taken verbatim from Alan Stark’s PDF guide (I bought the copyright from Alan). Those descriptions were in turn mostly taken direct from first ascentionist’s accounts. Many routes have only had one ascent. John Gregory did review the text to some extent before publication, but it is reasonably likely that there are some other errors in there. However, thankfully this is the first error of this magnitude (2 -3 Brit trad grades difference) that has been identified. Be careful out there! Generally, in my opinion, as spelled out in the introduction to the guidebook, UAE trad should be approached with caution, especially on first acquaintance.

policy on topo uploads

November 26th, 2013


I have temporarily deleted links to a large proportion of the topos and additional route information I have been collecting for the last four years. I am currently reviewing various options for updating the guidebook, as its 5th anniversary approaches. Most likely I will restore many of the links soon. Meanwhile, message me through the contact page if you are looking for something specific.

EDIT: January 2016- most of the topos are now available again. Click here.