Comments for the Red Armada blog

Comment on 9a Mike by admin

admin — Tue, 06 Dec 2011 04:44:31 +0000

I think it’s inevitably a gray area. Some counter-arguments: “no-one owns the rock”, “you’ll never get good enough to do the route”, etc. It is also hard to say what a reasonable amount of exclusivity time should be.

I like Jeff’s article because it specifically address the creative process (or illusion of creativity, anyway) that goes with first ascents.

Comment on 9a Mike by Mike

Mike — Mon, 05 Dec 2011 15:13:20 +0000

Jeff Jackson does indeed put it well. But, even if we don’t go with the ‘work of art’ analogy, simple respect for the expressed desire for it to be left alone, one would hope, should be sufficient.

Comment on Second ascent of Exit Surprise by A. Laffey

A. Laffey — Mon, 21 Nov 2011 14:26:45 +0000

True to form we forgot the big gear for the climb, It was overcome with a sling thread, better option. Alan I do have the old cam left on the first pitch as described on your CD when I first attempted the route 5 years ago, a rare looking bit of kit! As for the traverse, I swung on every peg, Philip all but climbed across and Andy fell foul to a lose hold, but we all agree the prospect of completing the traverse and placing pegs ( the only protection available) was some achievement.
As for Mr. Elvis , show us all you Hilti qualification so, and yes I am smelly and yes I am Irish,, yardy yardy,,,,

Comment on Second ascent of Exit Surprise by Alan Stark

Alan Stark — Mon, 21 Nov 2011 14:13:48 +0000

Just had the following mail from Antoine

“Very funny indeed. Why are people repeating routes when there is so
much new lines to open. I am sure I used some of these pegs in the
traverse to put the next ones. My main worry was that the night was
coming and I never worried to pull/help on a piton or two.

Thanks for the paper.

Antoine”

Comment on Second ascent of Exit Surprise by Alan Stark

Alan Stark — Mon, 21 Nov 2011 12:57:11 +0000

Re Aiden’s comments regarding the desirability of having enough large cams, it’s worth noting that between them, Bill and Antoine only had one Camalot that was bigger than a size 4 Friend, and a couple of #11 Hexes. Also the big camalot belonged to Bill so wouldn’t have been used by Antoine on the FA.

Comment on Second ascent of Exit Surprise by Alan Stark

Alan Stark — Mon, 21 Nov 2011 12:49:25 +0000

No criticism perceived Toby, and none intended on my part — I was only adding a bit or historical perspective to what is a very fine effort by Aiden and Philippe.

Comment on Second ascent of Exit Surprise by Elvis

Elvis — Mon, 21 Nov 2011 12:21:57 +0000

hey i belive the smelly irsh cheated he has not got a certficate to use his head as a hammer

Comment on Second ascent of Exit Surprise by admin

admin — Mon, 21 Nov 2011 09:50:00 +0000

By the way, Alan, there was no criticism intended there! I know your E grade was a guess inferred from Antoine’s stuff. I only tickled it up to E2 to be prudent. And unlike my guide, you left Antoine’s “TD+” overall grade and UIAA pitch grades in there for people to draw their own conclusions.

Comment on Second ascent of Exit Surprise by Alan Stark

Alan Stark — Mon, 21 Nov 2011 09:01:33 +0000

There was a general disclaimer in the cd guide saying that the majority of routes had not been checked, and that many descriptions were reproduced more or less verbatim from details submitted by the original ascentionists. Antoine graded the route TD+ — which according to the Rockfax table equates to E1. His description of the traverse pitch stated 4 pegs were used – though he did not indicate whether they were used for aid. From what Bill told me of various ascents he did with Antoine, ‘alpine’ tactics were occasionally employed, and if a pull on a bit of gear was all that was needed to overcome a particularly tricky move on a big route then so be it. I hasten to add, that from my knowledge of the pair of them, they did not use excessive aid on any major route — just enough to ensure they could get up and down in one piece!

Comment on Second ascent of Exit Surprise by Mike Nott

Mike Nott — Mon, 21 Nov 2011 06:54:00 +0000

This is a really excellent and inspiring tale. So much more inspiring than the dross I’ve recently read about climbing on other ‘social’ sites.