2009/2010 season wrap

Some notes on what has been happening since the guidebook was published:


Oddly neglected!


At Shady Circus Greg Caire and I made the first ascent of the four pitch Acquiescence in early December, just days after the guide went to print. Andy La Bonte and Nasim Eshghi then repeated the route in February, confirming the overall E4 grade and technical grades. However Andy did think that an E2 leader, also able to do F7a sport, could try the route as the cruxes are not runout. Aiden Laffey has been chossaneering elsewhere on Jebel Ras Al Qays with a view to pushing a route all the way to the top of the 1000m face … would be impressive if ever complete.

Outside Ghalilah, some new routes have gone up at Grayskull but the area seems to still be regarded as too sensitive to be publicised. Nearby some short routes were done at Clint Eastwood Crag.


John Gregory and fellow tradistanis continue to develop the Nearside/ Junction area. There are about ten more routes additional to those in the interim guide. I hope to get these written up by the end of the summer.

Further down Wadi Shahah, Dave Watson climbed several more problems on the Cube including the obvious sharp line right of Mike’s Problem, probably V5ish, and the fun arete right again at about V2.

Yellow House has seen some traffic. Al Zawir, Ruby in the Dust and Captain Flamingo are all considered worth two stars. The latter now has bolt anchors.

At Roadside,¬† Steve Worth soloed the Clog Dancer project at sounds-likes-a-sandbag E2, calling it Oates So Easy. Round the corner Andy’s Project is still unclimbed and now open to all to try. Pokemon has now had five ascents (me, Read Macadam, Andy, Juliette Danion and Gordon Rech) with opinions on the grade ranging from F7a+ to F7b+.

The long Hila routes get some traffic. Over the Hill is regarded as worth a star or two.

Further south in Wadi Naqab – which will one day deserve its own guidebook section – is Andy and Pete Thompson’s uber-project, the Vertical Vice; as yet unrepeated. I am awarding this the inaugural Red Armada Publishing Ascent of the Season (… there might even be an actual prize when I get paid for the book by the distributor, which will be when they get paid by GoSports, etc). There’s plenty of other potential in Naqab and the wadi road has been extended recently.


Also neglected. There have been some worrying reports of the Omani border post refusing entry to the wadi from the east side, except to GCC passport holders. Seems to be a sporadic phenomenon and possibly negotiable. Above the pass between Wadi Bih and Wadi Khab Shamis, Aiden has found a high-altitude summer bouldering venue: The Hole in the Sky – great name!


At Tawiyan, Arash Alam repeated both Echo Beach F7c and Fujairah Spaceport F7a+, confirming the grades. Strangely the route on the book’s cover, Jebel Jebel F6b+ (or perhaps E3), has still only had one clean ascent. Of the projects mentioned in the book; the Columbian Slapper remains virgin, Office Clerk has been bolted and should have been led by the end of the summer and the aptly-named Your Face is a Mess has had hangers removed. The Stone Pussy anchors have been improved. Roadwork above the cliff seems to be finished for now and access is now very quick.

The Colosseum remains ignored, probably because of the long approach walk.


Damian’s Boulders have become wildly popular, not only with real climbers. Dave reported finding a large school group camped there. Hopefully access won’t be compromised – there is a village nearby. Dave has been working through the harder problems, notably making the probable second ascent of Days Don’t get Better V7, which he confirmed as hard and brilliant. Around the corner, Gordon and the other Dubai crew have started developing The Strip Club, a new sport crag.

The giant Nant Bidey also remains untouched.


Also popular though most groups don’t get beyond the Conga Line area. As blogged recently, I got the first ascent of the properly-scary Limah Roof project at Limah Rock, with help from Mike Olver, who had eccentrically kayaked over there (40km!) to clean it the evening before.


Jerry Spring continues to add routes at Hatta, mostly in the Fridge area and the complex territory left of Tadaima. Detail has been posted on the forum. Tadaima has had at least two repeats, by Juliette and Arash, and is confirmed at F7b.


The main event in the Al Ain area has been the ongoing development of the awesome Shark Fin, sadly accompanied by accidents: of which by far the worst a serious head injury caused by lowering off a 30m route on a 50m rope. Be careful. The three big routes there, all Gordon’s creations – Trencherman, Lactic Labyrinthe and Second Life – have all had multiple ascents though with some dissent on the grades. All are in the F7a to F7a+ range. Lactic Labyrinthe has seen the most failures so is probably the hardest. There’s is much more to be done at Shark Fin so no guide yet. Elsewhere I am not writing much about Good Morning Helena crag as I have still never been there, still not sure where it is and a spy assures me it is a bit crap. However Gordon says his F6c there is good. Will add it to any eventual Shark Fin guide.

Wonderwall has been host to a lot of partying/ camping but little new climbing. Gordon has been making valiant attempts to get the third ascent of Exile and bolted some easy routes on the new Bunny wall. Ninja Smartypants remains unrepeated AFAIK, despite some attempts, and may be hard for F7b.

On the UAE side of the border I have peered hopefully at the extensive chossy cliffs on the east side of Jebel Hafeet and even bolted some minor things at White Wadi. Again see the forum for detail.


Astonishingly Crag on 34th Street has still only had one visit. Abu Dhabi municipality are building a bridge over there to encourage more interest (at least, I assume that’s the reason …).

Please let me know if there is anything important I have missed.

Tags: , , , , , , , ,

3 Responses to “2009/2010 season wrap”

  1. Alan Stark says:

    Nice to see people are still enjoying themselves, and that the pace of exploration continues unabated. So much done – yet so many more opportunities keep appearing even though ( or maybe because) Upper Wadi Bih seems to turning in to a bit of a no-go area — SHAME!

  2. Mike says:

    Toby, nice newsy write-up. Have corrected part of it for you:

    The Colosseum remains unclimbed, probably because of the long approach walk, the wife not being up for it and my E1 soloing days being 25 years behind me.

  3. Andy says:

    Just got around to reading this. Thanks for taking the time to do this. It is good to read a summary of the various happenings of the past year.

    But to clarify:

    I agree with the E4 6b overall rating of climb because as I learned from climbing in Wales, a route with a few bolts can still have an “E” rating so long as some trad gear is required for protection at places. Just as a route with exclusively bolt protection must have a sport grade, even if it feels a little run out i.e. a well spaced French 6b cannot be called an E3.

    I definitely think that a climber who is capable of climbing 7a sport and feels comfortable above their gear on an E2 route like Ian G’s Nusgul (Roadside) could climb Acquiescence. I don’t say this because the cruxes are not “run out” i.e. has good gear. I say it because the cruxes are above bolts but the sections below them (on gear) are about E2 5c.

    There is the potential to take a reasonably sized fall (as I did once on pitch 1) but the climb is steep so the fall is safe. A fall of this size would be nothing dramatic to someone used to clipping bolts outside of the UAE where the bolts on sport routes can sometimes be a little spaced out (2-3m?)

    So if there are any sport climbers out there in the UAE who are new to the trad game and are looking for a climb with a little bit of everything, get after it!! You’ll have a good time!