more chossaneering madness!

Aiden Laffey has just got in touch with a new seven pitch route in Wadi Ghalilah, including a full-blown aid pitch. In a similar vein, he and Andy LaBonte recently tried the (probably never repeated) Shady Circus route, Exit Surprise, and found the fourth pitch traverse much harder than expected, taking a fall onto old pitons. It seems possible that pitch was originally aided and not climbed free as reported? Beware …

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3 Responses to “more chossaneering madness!”

  1. Alan Stark says:

    It’s unclear from Antoines description whether he in fact used aid, on Exit Surprise though he did mention the number of pegs in the description given to me and subsequently written up in the CDOC.

    Recent e-mails with Tim seem to lend weight to Antoine using an ‘alpine’ approach to the odd aid point — i.e. if it’s quicker with a peg then do it!

    The peg that saved Andy was apparently one of the home made ‘mild steel’ channels that came out of a Sharjah scaffolding factory – courtesy of Benjamin – our foreman! I made sure there were always a few available for anyone who wanted some.

  2. A.Laffey says:

    Andy climbed up higher than the line of petons, 4 in total, before a hold gave way and feel. The plan is to go back and aid across the traverse and finally complet this route.
    I highly recommend Sharjah scaffolding factory petons, Assess before clipping!

  3. Alan Stark says:

    Word of warning about the home made pegs — the eyes are quite sharp edged ( they were simply punched using a mechanical press). Always use a Krab with them. Where they were placed as abseil points, we often used a very cheap D shackle through the eye so that we would not have to sacrifice a Krab, and could retrieve the ropes without worrying about cutting them. The shackle would take bodyweight but probably not any shock loading.
    The slot in the stem of a rigid ‘Friend’ was perfect for unscrewing the locking bar!