I have just uploaded an up-to-date topo for the Ranch cliff in Wadi Khab Shamis. Brian Coones and friends have been developing routes there for the last couple of years. The topo is Brian’s work.
Posts Tagged ‘internet resources’
the last moves of pitch one of Acquiescence
Someone took an interest in my route Acquiescence in Wadi Ghalilah recently. This reminded me that neither the topo on the website nor the description in the guidebook (from when the route was still a project) are very good. I have uploaded an improved PDF topo here.
Obviously as the first ascentionist I would write this, but: factoring in the rock quality, the easy approach and the amazing cliff architecture I think Acquiescence is a strong contendor for the best route in the UAE. Anyone up to the job should go do it.
EDIT: as far as I know the route has only had three ascents so far. Greg and I got the FA in late 2009, then Andy LaBonte and Nasim Eshqi repeated it in early 2010 then Daniel Cieszynski and Aiden Laffey did it later in 2010.
The Red Armada publishing empire has just one month left before relocating to Canada (via a few weeks in Blighty). It’s a surprisingly busy period, not just negotiating the minefield that is UAE exit formalities, but also finishing up on some projects: a big final article for Outdoor UAE, some bolting, a possible topo for a RAK cliff.
Meanwhile I have also just committed (well, maybe, I’ll see how it goes …) to a new blog about my new life in Squamish, ripe I hope with climbing grade breakthroughs and pithy insight into the town’s evolution.
Just uploaded a topo for the Read Stack, a DWS sector just past Gen’s Cave. It is a companion to the Shark Bay topo uploaded a couple of days ago. The available topos for DWSing now comprise: the chapter in the 2009 guidebook, the major DWS update from 2011 and these two new topos. Enjoy!
The Read Stack (left of centre) © Theo Giani
I am using the free time I have right now to tidy up a few things in the guidebook coverage. Just uploaded is an update PDF for the popular right side of Tawiyan, since the guidebook was published.
Also an announcement: I am abandoning my rights to the Caracal Tree Extension project. It should now be regarded as an OPEN PROJECT. But if anyone does it, please tell me!
Toby on the lower 7a+ section of Caracal Tree in 2011
I have just put together a topo for Shark Bay, a DWS area quite close to Dibba. It was actually the location of the first ever DWS route (*) on that coast in 2006, but until now I had forgotten the location. A good range of routes from F4+ to F6b+. There are also several unclimbed projects.
A few photos:
Dave Watson on Insouciance F6b+ © Vanessa Becker
Mohammed the boatman contemplating the jump from Mohammed’s Route F4+ © Theo Giani
Emily Manuel on Whitewash F6a
A similar topo is in production for the Read Stack, further up the coast.
* EDIT: Alan Stark reminded me that the Cook brothers did some DWS in 1999/ 2000 ish near Dibba. From Damian’s article, which I will upload shortly, it sounds like they looked at the coast from a “serious rip-off” boat, but didn’t climb, but did traverse a bit along the coast from Zighy Bay.
Theo kindly contributed this update for Abu Dhabi emirates’ only substantial sport climbing area. I am quite amused by the TLA names.
Aiden has sent me this description for his late December 2011 route “The Gambler” in Wadi Ghalilah.
In case anyone is wondering, this is what I know to be missing from the topo archive (and not in the guidebook) at the moment:
- John Gregory’s routes at Transition in Wadi Shahah
- various new crags and routes (trad and sport) of Ralph Heath’s around the RAK area
- some bouldering areas developed by instructors at Al Shaheen in RAK
- no doubt some routes by the same guys around RAK as well
- Good Morning Helena crag in the Buraimi area
- some routes of Theo Giani’s at NPZ near Al Ain
- some routes of mine at Tawiyan
- a few DWS routes done since the update last summer
- about twenty routes in a secret location near Dibba
- Strip Club near Wadi Hilti
I have just uploaded five new topos to the new route page. Here is a list of the new stuff with direct links:
- Aiden’s Snakecharmer, the huge Ghalilah face of Jebel Ras Al Qays
- the Blindspot crag
- Paul’s (no longer) Secret Boulders. Be discreet at this one.