Posts Tagged ‘internet resources’

five year update

Friday, January 9th, 2015


Five years have passed since the UAE guidebook went on sale. Obviously there has been a lot of change since then: new crags, new routes, changed access situations, etc. I have begun drafting an update document –  linked HERE – which explains what has changed and where to get additional information. Only at an overview level – I am not aiming to put individual route descriptions or topos in the document.

I would be very grateful for assistance in making it accurate. Please take a look, then email me or FB message me with any contributions or corrections. Thanks!

EDIT – May 2015: unfortunately other commitments have overwhelmed intention and this document is not going to get finished. FWIW I have left the draft version up for now.

EDIT AGAIN – January 2016: the document is now ~ finished. Click HERE

policy on topo uploads

Tuesday, November 26th, 2013

I have temporarily deleted links to a large proportion of the topos and additional route information I have been collecting for the last four years. I am currently reviewing various options for updating the guidebook, as its 5th anniversary approaches. Most likely I will restore many of the links soon. Meanwhile, message me through the contact page if you are looking for something specific.

EDIT: January 2016- most of the topos are now available again. Click here.

topos for new wadi khab shamis additions

Monday, November 25th, 2013

Stephen Hyndman just sent me details for new stuff in Wadi Khab Shamis (Dibba Inland area). These are one new sport area with routes to F7a and one new multi-pitch E2 trad route with bolted anchors. Uploaded here.


Shannon Borowy following pitch 3 of Inshallah Crack, E2


another new topo – “The Ranch”

Friday, December 28th, 2012


I have just uploaded an up-to-date topo for the Ranch cliff in Wadi Khab Shamis. Brian Coones and friends have been developing routes there for the last couple of years. The topo is Brian’s work.

reworked Acquiescence topo

Tuesday, October 16th, 2012

the last moves of pitch one of Acquiescence

Someone took an interest in my route Acquiescence in Wadi Ghalilah recently. This reminded me that neither the topo on the website nor the description in the guidebook (from when the route was still a project) are very good. I have uploaded an improved PDF topo here.

Obviously as the first ascentionist I would write this, but: factoring in the rock quality, the easy approach and the amazing cliff architecture I think Acquiescence is a strong contendor for the best route in the UAE. Anyone up to the job should go do it.

EDIT: as far as I know the route has only had three ascents so far. Greg and I got the FA in late 2009, then Andy LaBonte and Nasim Eshqi repeated it in early 2010 then Daniel Cieszynski and Aiden Laffey did it later in 2010.

the long goodbye

Tuesday, June 19th, 2012

The Red Armada publishing empire has just one month left before relocating to Canada (via a few weeks in Blighty). It’s a surprisingly busy period, not just negotiating the minefield that is UAE exit formalities, but also finishing up on some projects: a big final article for Outdoor UAE, some bolting, a possible topo for a RAK cliff.

Meanwhile I have also just committed (well, maybe, I’ll see how it goes …) to a new blog about my new life in Squamish, ripe I hope with climbing grade breakthroughs and pithy insight into the town’s evolution.

Read Stack topo

Wednesday, June 6th, 2012

Just uploaded a topo for the Read Stack, a DWS sector just past Gen’s Cave. It is a companion to the Shark Bay topo uploaded a couple of days ago. The available topos for DWSing now comprise: the chapter in the 2009 guidebook, the major DWS update from 2011 and these two new topos. Enjoy!

The Read Stack (left of centre) © Theo Giani

Tawiyan PDF update and a new open project

Wednesday, June 6th, 2012

I am using the free time I have right now to tidy up a few things in the guidebook coverage. Just uploaded is an update PDF for the popular right side of Tawiyan, since the guidebook was published.

Also an announcement: I am abandoning my rights to the Caracal Tree Extension project. It should now be regarded as an OPEN PROJECT. But if anyone does it, please tell me!

Toby on the lower 7a+ section of Caracal Tree in 2011

Shark Bay topo

Monday, June 4th, 2012

I have just put together a topo for Shark Bay, a DWS area quite close to Dibba. It was actually the location of the first ever DWS route (*) on that coast in 2006, but until now I had forgotten the location. A good range of routes from F4+ to F6b+. There are also several unclimbed projects.

A few photos:

Dave Watson on Insouciance F6b+ © Vanessa Becker

Mohammed the boatman contemplating the jump from Mohammed’s Route F4+ © Theo Giani

Emily Manuel on Whitewash F6a

A similar topo is in production for the Read Stack, further up the coast.

* EDIT: Alan Stark reminded me that the Cook brothers did some DWS in 1999/ 2000 ish near Dibba. From Damian’s article, which I will upload shortly, it sounds like they looked at the coast from a “serious rip-off” boat, but didn’t climb, but did traverse a bit along the coast from Zighy Bay.


NPZ Update

Tuesday, May 22nd, 2012

Theo kindly contributed this update for Abu Dhabi emirates’ only substantial sport climbing area. I am quite amused by the TLA names.