Posts Tagged ‘rebolting’

mid-summer bolting at Wonderwall

Sunday, June 24th, 2012

Circus Sands and the Gutter project (new bolts in red)

Some bolting work has been done in the Circus Sands/ Central Wall sector of Wonderwall. Circus Sands itself has six new bolts, four on the first pitch and two on the top pitch. This makes the route significantly safer, especially on the easy initial slab, where 20-30m ground falls were previously possible. Hypothetically this might be considered retro-bolting as the slab has been climbed many times without protection. However consensus has swung firmly in favour and everyone who has completed first ascents in this area either gave their blessing or actually placed the new bolts. The route still retains some run-out flavour. In its new form it is highly recommended to anyone climbing around F6a or above, who has multi-pitch and abseil experience, as it crosses very spectacular and exposed terrain en route to a cool summit.

In the new route category, Theo Giani has bolted the whole of the Gutter project, which had previously been looked at and partially-cleaned, but abandoned. When complete this will give a classic sustained 40m pitch in the F7s, similar to, but possibly slightly steeper than, Exile.

Tawiyan update

Saturday, February 19th, 2011

Tawiyan has been popular over the last few months. All the routes have seen some attention, especially on the Azimuth Wall. At the same time I have been tidying up some bolting and working on some new lines.

The rebolting is as follows:

Stone Pussy – first two bolts moved on to the normal line (previously too far right)

Echo Beach – bolt on the crux roof moved higher (makes for a more flowing redpoint, the next bolt is now only needed for working the route). The route has been redpointed by at least six people now and is currently well chalked and tickmarked. Perhaps only worth F7b+?

Burnt to a Crisp – new bolt just below the anchors (to prevent any repetitions of Solomon’s near-groundfall). A new sequence for the crux has also been found; some people now think that the grade is more like F6c.

Bloody as Hell – moved first bolt higher (safer) and placed new chain anchor (old chain was crap and in a bad position). In contrast to its neighbour this route doesn’t get redpointed often and seems to be holding on to F7a.

Another grade opinion is that Fujairah Spaceport may be easier than F7a+ but everyone who has done it has enthused about its quality. Frankly I think people deserve the grade for making the effort to go up there!

Matt Pfeifer flashing Fujairah Spaceport

Back down in the wadi basin, Office Clerk seems to be holding on to F7a+. Because of its centre-stage location it is probably the most attempted route at the grade in the region.

And the new stuff (click for larger images):

Tawiyan Feb 2011

1. Caracal Branch F7a+ 22m Start just left of Stone Pussy at twin bolt anchors, move up the easy groove for a few metres then shuffle right to the hand crack and follow it to where it ends in the corner under the flat roof. Cross this to a large flake then move rightwards with big dynamic moves for 7m to an obvious hole (and reasonable rest). Exit up and right on positive but spaced holds in a wild position. Chain anchor. Possibly F7b.
Toby Foord-Kelcey, 6 February 2011

2. The Caracal Tree F7b 25m Follow the Branch to the rest at the hole. Leave the hole with a tenuous move left then climb more easily up to the big hollow flake. A couple of strenuous pulls above this reach better holds and twin ring anchors where the rock turns blank. Possibly F7b+.
Toby Foord-Kelcey, 24 February 2011

3. The Caracal Tree Extension F-hard 32m Follow the Tree to its anchors, then somehow improvise a move past the blank section and continue up the spectacularly-positioned arete above to a chain anchor just under the Jebel Jebel traverse ramp. Take care lowering off.
a work in progress

4. Más Sangrienta F6b 10m Scoop and shallow groove right of Bloody as Hell to that route’s new chain anchor.
Toby Foord-Kelcey, 29 January 2011

The “Caracal Tree” refers to a macabre discovery Scott Barber and I made during the early days of new-routing at Tawiyan. About one kilometer from the cliff, in the gravel flats near a quarry entrance, was a tree with desiccated animal corpses hanging in it.

At the time we thought they might be foxes but a few months later a photo of the same tree appeared in The National newspaper, accompanied by an interview with the conservationist who had made the discovery, explaining that they were caracals and that they’d been trapped then hung there by local goat herders. (Though not very large, the cats are fast and agile enough to kill goats.) Unsurprisingly the corpses swiftly vanished after the article appeared.